Our African Adventure - Part 3 - Kenya

 This morning, while completing our packing, we had more visitors outside our balcony window.   The giraffe had decided to take advantage of the early morning sunlight.  One of the tour members stepped out onto his balcony next door - totally oblivious to his surroundings.  I yelled at him to look to his left; and, when he turned, he was face to face with the giraffe.

Today we will continue through the Great Rift Valley before entering the land of the Maasai warriors. The Great Rift Valley is a continuous geographic trench, more than 6,000 km (3,728 miles) in length, that runs through Kenya and other countries.

 Our next lodge is located on the outskirts of the Masai Mara National Reserve.   Masai Mara is known as one of Africa’s Greatest Wildlife Reserves, situated in southwest Kenya and connected at the border to the northern section of the  Serengeti National Park. It is famous for the abundance of the big cats, Lion, Leopard, Cheetah and the Great Wildebeest Migration and the Maasai people.

Stock alongside the roadway is common -- whether the roads are paved or dirt; back roads or major highways.  The right-of-way is owned by the government.  Families with stock and no land to feed them on bring them here to graze.

We stop in the town of Narok to do some shopping while the drivers fuel the vehicles. The guides have made an arrangement with various shopkeepers along the route -- if they keep their bathrooms clean and operational, then the guides will bring the tourists to shop.

Narok is the last major town when travelling by road to Masai Mara.  While in the town, we noticed the large number of bicycles and motorcycles.  

Narok Taxi Stand

These are used as taxis -- not necessarily owned by the driver, but used to transport individuals in the area.  Although there is a helmet law, and a restriction of two to a vehicle -- we saw these laws broken several times.  As we leave Narok, the pavement starts to narrow and soon we are on dirt roads.  This will be our main mode of travel for the remainder of the trip except our mid-trip visit to Nairobi. 


There are 142 ethnic tribes in Kenya.  Many have adapted "modern" customs and ways, with the exception of the Maasai people.  This group holds true to their ancestral beliefs.  Because of their residence near many of the game parks in Kenya and Tanzania, and their distinctive customs and dress, they are the most known tribe in Kenya.  Because of their semi-nomadic lifestyles, the Maasai held a large portion of Kenyan land.  Starting with a 1904 treaty, and followed with another in 1911, Maasai land in Kenya was reduced by 60 percent when the British evicted them to make room for settlers and ranchers.  Their land was reduced in Tanzania in the 1940s.  More land was taken to create wildlife reserves and national parks.  An agreement was reached that the Maasai people could have grazing rights and live in some of the reserves/parks as long as they maintained their nomadic ways and did not establishing farming or other uses of the land.

A Maasai's wealth is determined by the number of cattle they own and the number of children they have.  The Maasai raise cattle for the milk and blood, and there is rare occasion that a cow is sacrificed as food.  Sheep and goats supplement their diets.

Cattle auction

Livestock transportation

Auctions take part in various areas; stock is brought here either by drives or in vehicles.  When sheep and goats are added to be sold, a truck is loaded first with the cattle and then a piece of wood is placed on top of the cattle and the sheep and goats are then loaded on the wood. 

The governments now require that all children attend school up until a certain age.  This has put more restrictions on the Maasai people, where many are finding residence in one area so their children can attend.  The Maasai do not conform totally to the law; if they have multiple children, they might send some to school and keep the remainder at home to tend the stock.  If a child graduates, it is expected that they will return cattle to the family in payment of providing the education.  Many of the schools in Kenya are privately owned.

We checked in first at the Siana Springs Camp .  This would be the first of two tent camps we would be staying in on this trip.  http://www.siana-springs.co.ke/ 

We were given an introduction to the Maasai culture by Jay Jay and then we were invited to his village. 

  

Village



 

First the warriors, then the women, performed. 







Afterwards, we were escorted to the huts by one of the tribe.  The huts are made by the women using branches and cow dung.



Inside the hut

It takes each woman about a week to complete the task.  The men are responsible for building the fencing/protection around the camp.  The Maasai, along with many of the Kenyan residents, do not have electricity.  The Maasai use the near by river to do their laundry. 

Maasai women doing laundry

Cocktails

There was a safari scheduled in the Masai Mara after the Village visit.  However, since we were getting up early tomorrow morning for the Balloon Ride, we and several others chose to go back to the lodge to relax and get to bed early.

Our neighbors Karl and Lucy Stefan have been honored as Balloon Ride pioneers, so we decided that we should take a balloon ride in their honor -- even tho' a balloon ride had always been on my bucket list of things to do.  So the following morning, we had an early wake up call so that we would be launched before sunrise.  One party in the group did not get their wake up call; so everyone was delayed until the tour director could roust them from their bed.  They did have coffee at both the tent camp and the launch site.  Because we were late, we took a very "fast" trip over the rough roads to get to the site in time.  After a quick bathroom break (outhouse with flashlights) we were ready to board.

Passengers loaded into each compartment

Ready for take-off
 

All the balloon rides I have seen, the basket is upright and the passengers are loaded with the aid of a step stool.  This basket holds 16 passengers and the pilot.  The basket is divided into four sections; then laid on its side for loading.  Passengers are put into the sections in a prone position.  (Not sure if it was because of weight, but Ed and I didn't get to ride beside each other.) When the basket is loaded; it is then pulled upright by adding hot air to the balloon. 

 

After instructions are given by the pilot, we are ready to take off.  We were advised to wear hats, and after the blowers were lit, you could definitely feel the heat.  Our liftoff was like a slow run across the field and we gained height before crossing the Talik River (the northern border of the Masai Mara National Reserve).  Not far into the reserve, we saw the Maasai bringing their cattle out; they bring them in at dusk each evening to give them water.

 

Our flight takes about an hour, and it is a wonderful experience.      The sunrise was beautiful.

After spotting a herd of zebras and wildebeests, the pilot adjusts the height of the balloon and we are low enough that we could almost reach out and touch these fine animals.  Because this is the time for the Great Migration (http://www.wildwatch.com/content/great_migration/migration.php)  there are zebras and wildebeests as far as the eye can see.

 

Click to watch video of balloon ride

 

The pilot was able to maneuver the balloon so that it can make a 180 degree turn; therefore, giving everyone a view in each direction.  He also had devised a way 

where he could take photos of the entire group while in flight.  He also used the camera to pick up other interesting shots of us while we were enjoying our trip. 

As we continued across the park we also saw ostrich, giraffe, gazelles, elans, and hyenas.  Whenever we would try to get close enough to take pictures, the noise from the balloon would scare them off. 

 When ready to land, we were told to get into our sitting positions and hold on.  That way, if the balloon should tip over, we would not be thrown out.  We landed straight up, but it gave quite a jerk to several of our backs.  We departed the balloon, took pictures and then were treated to a champagne brunch. 

Cheers

 

The "Loo with a View" -- the back side had an open flap where one could sit and look out over the plains.

 

After receiving our certificates of flight,  the "chase team" drivers took us to meet the rest of the tour group so we could continue our exploration of the Masai Mara by vehicle.