July 24-27, 2008 -- Back on the Alcan Highway

We reconnected with the Alaskan Highway in Whitehorse.  From Whitehorse we headed south.  Traveling along the road, it was amazing to see the types of terrain that the crews had to work with while building the highway -- waterfalls, rivers, mountains.

We stayed in Watson Lake. We saw a movie on the Northern Lights. Guess they are predominant in this area, but because of the long hours of sunlight, they cannot be seen this time of year (late Aug-spring is the best time).  We stayed at the Air Force Lodge.  It is a 1942 renovated building that was used as a barrack for pilots during WWII.  It has been modernized, but there are community bathrooms for males and females. Couples had their individual rooms. 

We hung our license plate in the Signpost Forest along with 70,000 other signs before heading to Liard Hot Springs for a quick soak. The Signpost Forest was started by a lonely soldier when he was based here during WWII as a reminder of home and the place has grown from there.

 
 
 
 
 
We made another 300+ miles today from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson.  We believe this is one of the most beautiful sections on the Alcan Highway (and it didn't have any construction, just some short gravel breaks).  We left the Yukon behind.
 

After crossing into British Columbia, we started seeing the first of the wildlife (deer and black bear).  After leaving Watson Lake, there were signs that warn travelers of buffalo on the road for the next 72 miles.  After seeing the black bear, we saw one buffalo along the side, then a small group in the field.  Then for many miles we didn't see any others.  We stopped at the Hot Springs for a quick soak (felt good!) and then off again.  We encountered two buffalo crossing the road; and then, thankfully we were following a semi, when we met the remainder of the herd on the road.  The semi was having difficulty getting them to move out of the way.  We tagged along behind the semi as if we were part of it.  They walked on past, but were within 3 feet of the motorcycle.  They were HUGH!!  We talked to a couple later in a truck and fifth wheel.  They asked how we did with the buffalo. They told us that when they went through, the largest male rubbed up against their truck (probably trying to show them who was boss).  This is one time we were thankful that there was a semi on the highway!

The Stone Sheep Provincial Park is located along this road.  We encountered both Stone Sheep and Caribou.  Then we saw additional deer, a wild turkey, small black bear, and another moose!  Quite a day for wildlife!!  We were traveling largely through the Canadian Rockies.  Mucho Lake is located along here, and when the sun shines, it is a beautiful jade color.

The last part of the Alcan is probably the best part onf the highway.  Because most of the travelers begin at this end, we are beginning to believe that it is maintained as well as it is so travelers get a comfort level in riding on it, and then when they are committed, they move on to the remainder of the highway.  Permafrost does play a major part in the desstruction of the highway, and we are sure that causes more damage to the road in the higher elevations.
 
Over these few days we traveled over the longest and 2nd longest bridge span on the highway, the last remaing suspension bridge, and a culvert that had been one of the largest in the world when it was installed.  The more you ride this road, the more amazed you are at how the road was constructed, and the purpose of having it constructed to bring military supplies and equipment to Alaska during WWII.
 

Towards the end of the journey, we crossed the lowest section of the highway (elev. 1,000 feet).  We are now in Dawson Creek -- Mile Zero if you were going north.  We took a side trip on the Old Alaskan Highway to see one of the original wooden bridges.  If the original road was in the condition as that one, we never would have made it as far as we did. 
 
At Dawson Creek, we visited the Alaskan Highway museum in the old train depot.  If you even take this highway, this a MUST stop so you can get a feel and appreciation of what went on in creating this route.

July 21, 2008 -- Fairbanks and then back south

From Denali we drove through Fairbanks for lunch and a quick visit.  Our lunch was at the Historic Chena Pump House.  http://www.pumphouse.com/

While trying to get a picture of a fighter plane landing at Eielson Air Force Base, but instead we had a moose appear on the opposite side of the road.

North Pole, Alaska is just south of Fairbanks, so we stopped to see if we could get a good word in with Santa.

On the way to Delta Junction we passed by the Alaskan pipeline.

At Delta Junction we got back on the Alaskan Highway.  Although Fairbanks has a mileage marker in the city, this is the official end of the highway.  They consider the start of the highway to be a Dawson Creek, Canada.  We drove the Alaskan Highway in reverse.  A hawk flew up from the side of the road and we barely missed it.  We traveled on to Tok where we spent the night.  The cruise lines for Alaska now have their own hotel chains scattered throughout the state and Canada.  This allows the cruise lines to offer trips inland by bus that previously could not be offered.  There was a group staying at our hotel in Tok.  The conversation was about the potential workers' strike at Denali Park.  Luckily we had already been there.  Guess they have surprises like these everywhere one travels.

July 13-15, 2008 -- On the Road Again

We took off from Haines via motorcycle on the Haines Highway.  Felt good to be riding again.  Saw a black bear cub and a large brown bear on the road from Haines to Haines Jct.  Road was good and the scenery was beyond description.  It was a little chilly, but no rain.  We left Alaska and entered the Canadian Yukon Territory.  We would connect with the Alcan Highway at Haines Junction.  Throughout our journey, there will be only one stretch of the Alcan that we will not drive on.                     History of the Alcan -- The Alcan Highway was originally built as a military route to transport troups, supplies, and aircraft from the lower 48 to Alaska.  Russia (as Sarah Palin says) is right next to the Alaskan border.  Throughout the trip, there were many areas that had been impacted by World War II.

The Alcan Highway is said to be paved, but between construction and frost heaves, that is debatable.  There was construction from Haines Jct to Tok, and I believe there was more gravel on the road there than what they had described for the Top of the World Hwy to Dawson City.  We talked to a rider from Silverton, CO and he said that he wasn't going to return the way we came, was going to take the "World" road back.  At least they admit there are areas on the "World" hwy that have gravel sections.

Having talked with several motorcyclists along the way, we learned that the orange flags along side the road would become our friends.  The flags marked the areas where there would be bumps.  The worse ones had either dip or slower mileage signs or both.  We also learned that the dark patches in the road meant that that section used to have an orange flag, then there was an attempt to patch, but then with the heavy trucks, they became pot holes.  As Ed says, "some of the potholes are deep enough for a gopher to live in."  Ed was very conscience of the road, and we only had a couple of teeth-rattling experiences.

We stayed in 1/2 of a modular at one stop and in the bunkhouse at the Sheep Mountain Resort on our way to Palmer.  The resort is also used in the wintertime for cross country skiing and dog sleds.  It was hard to believe that we were over timberline at 3,700 feet. 

The road crossed the 141st meridian which was the original boundary between Alaska and Canada when an 1825 treaty was signed between Russia and England. This is the boundary that the US understood to be when the purchase was made from Russia. However, when gold was discovered in 1896, a dispute arose between the US and Canada regarding the location of the boundary. In an international tribunal in 1903, the US was favored with the original division.

North of Anchorage (Palmer area) is the Musk Ox Ranch (also see photo above).  These animals are raised for domestication.  They are what would be referred to as a "Pre-Historic Goat."  They had been nearly extinct because of their valuable wool, and now they raising them for both domestication and some released into the wild.