Our African Adventure - Part 3 - Kenya

 This morning, while completing our packing, we had more visitors outside our balcony window.   The giraffe had decided to take advantage of the early morning sunlight.  One of the tour members stepped out onto his balcony next door - totally oblivious to his surroundings.  I yelled at him to look to his left; and, when he turned, he was face to face with the giraffe.

Today we will continue through the Great Rift Valley before entering the land of the Maasai warriors. The Great Rift Valley is a continuous geographic trench, more than 6,000 km (3,728 miles) in length, that runs through Kenya and other countries.

 Our next lodge is located on the outskirts of the Masai Mara National Reserve.   Masai Mara is known as one of Africa’s Greatest Wildlife Reserves, situated in southwest Kenya and connected at the border to the northern section of the  Serengeti National Park. It is famous for the abundance of the big cats, Lion, Leopard, Cheetah and the Great Wildebeest Migration and the Maasai people.

Stock alongside the roadway is common -- whether the roads are paved or dirt; back roads or major highways.  The right-of-way is owned by the government.  Families with stock and no land to feed them on bring them here to graze.

We stop in the town of Narok to do some shopping while the drivers fuel the vehicles. The guides have made an arrangement with various shopkeepers along the route -- if they keep their bathrooms clean and operational, then the guides will bring the tourists to shop.

Narok is the last major town when travelling by road to Masai Mara.  While in the town, we noticed the large number of bicycles and motorcycles.  

Narok Taxi Stand

These are used as taxis -- not necessarily owned by the driver, but used to transport individuals in the area.  Although there is a helmet law, and a restriction of two to a vehicle -- we saw these laws broken several times.  As we leave Narok, the pavement starts to narrow and soon we are on dirt roads.  This will be our main mode of travel for the remainder of the trip except our mid-trip visit to Nairobi. 


There are 142 ethnic tribes in Kenya.  Many have adapted "modern" customs and ways, with the exception of the Maasai people.  This group holds true to their ancestral beliefs.  Because of their residence near many of the game parks in Kenya and Tanzania, and their distinctive customs and dress, they are the most known tribe in Kenya.  Because of their semi-nomadic lifestyles, the Maasai held a large portion of Kenyan land.  Starting with a 1904 treaty, and followed with another in 1911, Maasai land in Kenya was reduced by 60 percent when the British evicted them to make room for settlers and ranchers.  Their land was reduced in Tanzania in the 1940s.  More land was taken to create wildlife reserves and national parks.  An agreement was reached that the Maasai people could have grazing rights and live in some of the reserves/parks as long as they maintained their nomadic ways and did not establishing farming or other uses of the land.

A Maasai's wealth is determined by the number of cattle they own and the number of children they have.  The Maasai raise cattle for the milk and blood, and there is rare occasion that a cow is sacrificed as food.  Sheep and goats supplement their diets.

Cattle auction

Livestock transportation

Auctions take part in various areas; stock is brought here either by drives or in vehicles.  When sheep and goats are added to be sold, a truck is loaded first with the cattle and then a piece of wood is placed on top of the cattle and the sheep and goats are then loaded on the wood. 

The governments now require that all children attend school up until a certain age.  This has put more restrictions on the Maasai people, where many are finding residence in one area so their children can attend.  The Maasai do not conform totally to the law; if they have multiple children, they might send some to school and keep the remainder at home to tend the stock.  If a child graduates, it is expected that they will return cattle to the family in payment of providing the education.  Many of the schools in Kenya are privately owned.

We checked in first at the Siana Springs Camp .  This would be the first of two tent camps we would be staying in on this trip.  http://www.siana-springs.co.ke/ 

We were given an introduction to the Maasai culture by Jay Jay and then we were invited to his village. 

  

Village



 

First the warriors, then the women, performed. 







Afterwards, we were escorted to the huts by one of the tribe.  The huts are made by the women using branches and cow dung.



Inside the hut

It takes each woman about a week to complete the task.  The men are responsible for building the fencing/protection around the camp.  The Maasai, along with many of the Kenyan residents, do not have electricity.  The Maasai use the near by river to do their laundry. 

Maasai women doing laundry

Cocktails

There was a safari scheduled in the Masai Mara after the Village visit.  However, since we were getting up early tomorrow morning for the Balloon Ride, we and several others chose to go back to the lodge to relax and get to bed early.

Our neighbors Karl and Lucy Stefan have been honored as Balloon Ride pioneers, so we decided that we should take a balloon ride in their honor -- even tho' a balloon ride had always been on my bucket list of things to do.  So the following morning, we had an early wake up call so that we would be launched before sunrise.  One party in the group did not get their wake up call; so everyone was delayed until the tour director could roust them from their bed.  They did have coffee at both the tent camp and the launch site.  Because we were late, we took a very "fast" trip over the rough roads to get to the site in time.  After a quick bathroom break (outhouse with flashlights) we were ready to board.

Passengers loaded into each compartment

Ready for take-off
 

All the balloon rides I have seen, the basket is upright and the passengers are loaded with the aid of a step stool.  This basket holds 16 passengers and the pilot.  The basket is divided into four sections; then laid on its side for loading.  Passengers are put into the sections in a prone position.  (Not sure if it was because of weight, but Ed and I didn't get to ride beside each other.) When the basket is loaded; it is then pulled upright by adding hot air to the balloon. 

 

After instructions are given by the pilot, we are ready to take off.  We were advised to wear hats, and after the blowers were lit, you could definitely feel the heat.  Our liftoff was like a slow run across the field and we gained height before crossing the Talik River (the northern border of the Masai Mara National Reserve).  Not far into the reserve, we saw the Maasai bringing their cattle out; they bring them in at dusk each evening to give them water.

 

Our flight takes about an hour, and it is a wonderful experience.      The sunrise was beautiful.

After spotting a herd of zebras and wildebeests, the pilot adjusts the height of the balloon and we are low enough that we could almost reach out and touch these fine animals.  Because this is the time for the Great Migration (http://www.wildwatch.com/content/great_migration/migration.php)  there are zebras and wildebeests as far as the eye can see.

 

Click to watch video of balloon ride

 

The pilot was able to maneuver the balloon so that it can make a 180 degree turn; therefore, giving everyone a view in each direction.  He also had devised a way 

where he could take photos of the entire group while in flight.  He also used the camera to pick up other interesting shots of us while we were enjoying our trip. 

As we continued across the park we also saw ostrich, giraffe, gazelles, elans, and hyenas.  Whenever we would try to get close enough to take pictures, the noise from the balloon would scare them off. 

 When ready to land, we were told to get into our sitting positions and hold on.  That way, if the balloon should tip over, we would not be thrown out.  We landed straight up, but it gave quite a jerk to several of our backs.  We departed the balloon, took pictures and then were treated to a champagne brunch. 

Cheers

 

The "Loo with a View" -- the back side had an open flap where one could sit and look out over the plains.

 

After receiving our certificates of flight,  the "chase team" drivers took us to meet the rest of the tour group so we could continue our exploration of the Masai Mara by vehicle.

 

 



 

 



Our African Adventure - Part 4 - Kenya

Although the Masai Mara Reserve has been inhabited by humans for 2,000 years, the 600 square miles of the park remain a critical haven for the vast herds of grazing wild mammals for which it is known.   It was declared a National Game Reserve in 1948.

Between the balloon ride and the rest of the day we covered a good portion of these square miles. 

Wildebeest

Here is the story of how the wildebeest - the "spare parts" wild animal -- was created.  The wildebeest spends a 1/3 of the day grazing and only needs water every 1 or 2 days. 

When the wildebeests travel, they move in single-file lines, with no specific leader.  However, when the zebras walk/run, they do so in a familia structure -- leading is the alpha male, next a selected alpha female, and then the remainder of the rankings.

One of the guides spotted a female lion and her cubs playing near a rock formation.  She tried to get the cubs to stay hidden; but like all youngers, they ventured out. 

Lion cubs
 

Next we saw the ostrich.  These are the largest birds in the world.  Males can weigh up to 300 pounds and can run up to 35 miles per hour. 

Next was a topi.  These are medium-sized antelopes with a glossy-dark brown coat.  They are found in the grasslands.


Ostrich

Topi

We stopped at one of the local resorts for a bathroom break.  As we continued our journey, we saw elephants, secretary birds, and spotted hyena.  The spotted hyena is the largest and more closely related to a cat.  They live in groups and are skilled hunters.

Hyena

Cheetah

Next, what was amazing to see was a group of elephants on one side of the road; and cheetahs lounging in the bushes not far away.  The cheetahs didn't seem to have any interest in the elephants or us.  Throughout the day we have also seen Maasai giraffes.

We made it to the Masa River Valley where we stopped first to have a picnic before processing to the area around the riverbed.  It is here that the Great Migration takes place.  The Zebras travel with the Wildebeests through the seasonal migration period.   It was surprising for us to learn that the migration occurs over a period of time; and, some of the animals move back and forth across the river.  They also do not cross everyday; and, this happened to be one where they chose to wait.

Although the hippos can be seen in the water, they are not part of the migration.  The hippos and crocodile have a mutual understanding of one another.  The Nile crocodile's diet is primarily Wildebeest.  A crocodile will manage to eat enough through the migration period to last until the Wildebeest return the following year.

Wildebeests

 After getting up early for the balloon ride, it had become a long day, so we decided to head back to camp.  It was time for a friendly glass of libation and conversation.  We did have to share our space with the local monkeys.  If you don't keep your tent shut and locked, the monkeys have learned to open up the zippers.  The tree hyrax entertained us all night with their calls.

Trying to join the party!

Standing guard

Today our trip took us back to Nairobi.  Some of the group stopped at the ATM -- known by the locals as "A Terrible Mistake."  This road was paved -- it was built by Italian POWs during World War II.   It climbed above the Great Rift Valley (considered the biggest valley in the world). 

Suburbs
 

As we got closer to Nairobi, the land was sprinkled with tea plantations.   More residents have been moving to the suburbs to get out of the city.  The price of land has increased; and, a small apartment rents for $200/month. 

Since where we had lunch was close by, we asked Oliver if he would take us past the American Embassy.  We also saw the African Headquarters for the United Nations.  (No photos allowed.)  We were told that after the US Embassy bombings occurred in Kenya and Tanzania in 1998, the Ole Sereni (our hotel) was used as temporary headquarters until the new embassy could be built.  (An intern, Josh, who had worked with Ed in Fort Collins at PDS, was now assigned to the embassy in Nairobi.  We tried to get together to have a meal, but our schedules never fit.)  Since traveling this way, our route to the hotel took us past the downtown area of Nairobi.  The first embassy had been located in the downtown area.

We arrived back at the hotel and had a short break before being taken to the Carnivore Restaurant for dinner.  The Carnivore has been voted twice as the best restaurant across the globe.  Clientele has included many celebrities.   Here the variety of meat includes ostrich, crocodile and camel.  Guests are taken to their tables, where numerous side dishes are served. 

 The diners do not select from menus; instead an army of carvers wearing zebra aprons and straw hats move from table to table carrying the Maasai swords laden with different kinds of meats.  There is a white flag placed in the center of the table; and, the diners are to raise the flag to let the servers know they are through dining.

 

 The next morning we left Nairobi and headed south to Amboseli National Park.  As we traveled along the paved highway, there were several speed bumps (known as "African Massage").  Although we did see a few police cars along the way, this is their way of controlling the speed (the speed bumps are not readily marked.) 

Technology is coming to Kenya -- south of Nairobi, I C T is starting a high tech city, which will include Microsoft, Google, and other tech companies.  We passed numerous fruit/vegetable stands where locals are selling their crops.  (It wasn't surprising to see many located near the speed bumps in the highway.)

 

We stopped at a curio shop for a bathroom break, and then headed back into Maasai territory.  We passed areas with more vegetation and farms.  Schools were located quite a distance away; and transportation was not provided.   The roads soon turned to dirt again; and, the lifestyle was again reflected with the cattle on the road and the brightly-dressed Maasai tending the herd.

 

Our next tent camp was located just outside the entrance to Amboseli National Park.  The staff greeted us with music.  http://www.sentrimhotels.net/index.php/sentrim-amboseli-lodges-in-amboseli

The tents were very spacious -- with three separate areas.  The bedroom area was large enough to hold a queen & single bed; the bathroom was full size; and, there was entry way for storage.   We again had to lock our tents. 

 

We walked out to the viewpoint to determine whether we could see Mount Kilimanjaro.  It has been cloudy that last several days, and as the natives put it, "Mount Kilimanjaro was sleeping."  (We tried again several times during the safari and on the highway, but the mountain never did "wake up" and come into view.)

 

 

After getting settled at camp, we headed back to the park for an afternoon safari.  Amboseli is blessed with a wide range of habitats, including dry open plains, acadia woodlands, volcanic thornbush, marshes, and swamps.  http://www.kws.org/parks/parks_reserves/AMNP.html  Originally established as a much larger reserve in 1948; 150 square miles were given National Park status in 1977.  The park is home to over 400 species of birds (among them herons and raptors) and 50 species of mammals.  Amboseli is a Maasai word meaning "dry dust" which is an indication of the park's arid side.  Most of the park only averages 12 inches of rain per year.  Although rainfall is sparse, the clouds continue to cover Mount Kilimanjaro.  The lake is dry eleven months of the year.  We were told that the water for the park comes from underground streams.

Umbrella Acadia

 As we entered the park we were surprised to see the size of the termite mounds.  Although uncommon in the US, termite mounts are plentiful in Africa.  According to Dr Don's website http://drdons.net/inside-termite-mound, as many as a million termites can live in one mound; and some have been dated to over 4,000 years old.

Termite Mound

We soon started seeing the wildlife -- ostrich and wildebeests.  The most amazing spot on the trip was when we came to a crossroad and in the field ahead were numerous mammals (The African Collection) grazing near a watering hole.  There were wildebeests, zebras, Thomson gazelles, giraffes, egret, and elephants.  The two giraffe ventured near the watering hole; but, the elephants seemed to have it occupied.  No skirmishes, no hassles, just grazing.

 As we left the zebra crossed in front of us.   Each zebra has a unique stripe pattern like a fingerprint.  We soon came upon the elephants for which the park is known.  Our driver told us the males weigh about 600 pounds.  As the male got closer, you could smell the musth from his testosterone glands.  When this is present, it is known to cause an aggressive behavior, so the drivers left the vans running while he was around. 

 

Other animals we saw on the afternoon safari included black-headed heron, gray-crowned crane, and spotted hyena.  As sunset was approaching, the giraffe came into view one more time.  We then headed back to camp for libation and dinner. 

 

Sunset

Tusker Beer

Jim & Becky

Ron & Cathy

 Two safaris were scheduled for our next visit to Amboseli.  After breakfast we were back in our vans and traveling through the park.  A superior starling, an African goshawk and ostrich were there to greet us in the early morning.  One of the ostrich was feeling "feisty" as a male walked by and started doing her mating dance.  Cape buffalo with the cattle egrets came next.  The egrets spend their time foraging at the feet of the large mammals eating insects or riding on their backs picking off ticks.

 

The African elephant is the largest living land mammal.  As an adult they can weigh 6 tons and stand 11 feet tall.  A baby weighs 250 pounds at birth.  Elephants may eat up to 660 pounds of food and drink 43 gallons of water in a day.  Because they only use approximately half of what they eat, they help replant the very forests that they devour.  Both sexes grow tusks -- males are usually thicker.  Their tusks are used for digging, carrying and as weapons.  The elephants ears are filled with blood vessels, which help cool them down -- each ear weighs about 100 pounds.  Their trunk contains over 40,000 muscles and tendons. 

 

Add caption

Next we were taken into a wooden area and were greeted by yellow baboons.  Guineafowl were scattered among the grass.  Some of the base camps are located in this area.  The area is fenced and long wires are hung from the gate over the roadway to deter the larger animals from entering this area. 

 

After lunch and a nap, some of us went back out for the second safari.  We were greeted by giraffe and Thomson gazelles. We came across the group of female elephants. It looks like the male we saw earlier has also found the group.  They estimate that there are approximately 1,500 elephants in the park.

Click to see the male elephant's visit

 

We headed back to camp where we had libation and dinner before retiring.  Tomorrow we will be headed to Tanzania.