Europe - 1998 -- Fjords, Norway to Stockholm, Sweden

Knowing that there might have been complications because of the Air Controllers’ strike, it was a relief for Marguerite and Bev when they met Althea and Donna at the train station. They had arrived earlier and had their luggage stored in lockers. When Bev and Marguerite had been in the station earlier that week, they had had difficulty with the luggage cart. The only way they knew of to get the luggage to the second tier was to use the moving walkway. Taking the cart up the walkway, the cart’s front wheels had locked and caused the cart to tip. The luggage fell off and created a pile at the top of the walkway. Marguerite had insisted on helping Bev with the cart, so when the cart tipped, Bev needed to grab Marguerite and make certain that she did not fall. Luckily no one was injured; but today, they used the handicap lift, which they had discovered too late last time. 

With luggage in hand, Althea, Marguerite, Donna and Bev boarded the train for their next destination. The train would depart at 3:00 pm and they would be traveling from Oslo to Voss on the Oslo-Bergen railway. The railway is a marvel of civil engineering and its fame has spread worldwide. It is one of the most famous railway passages in the world; and, since its inauguration in 1909, millions of people have crossed the high altitude plateau of Hardangervidda – “the roof of Norway” – watching summits, glaciers, eternal snow, crystal blue lakes and spectacular fjord scenery from the comfortable seats of their railway car.

The group would be staying at the Fleischers Hotel in the town of Voss. On the lakefront right beside the Voss railroad station, Fleischers could not have been more convenient. The Oslo-Bergen train stopped immediately out back. It was built in 1899 in the Swiss Dragon style on the sweeping hillside overlooking Lake Vangsvatnet. An extension was added in 1977. 

While everyone was getting settled in their rooms, Bev decided to go out and explore the town of Voss. Situated between the Soigné and Hardanger fjords, Voss is a famous year-round resort, also known for its folklore. Voss is a natural base for exploring the two largest fjords in Norway. In and around Voss are glaciers, mountains, fjords, waterfalls, orchards, rivers and lakes. The town's proximity to the Sognefjord and its position between Bergen and Flåm on the scenic railway have made it popular with tourists.

In the early Viking Age, before Harald Fairhair, Voss was a petty kingdom. According to legend, the people of Voss were forcibly converted to Christianity by king Olav, who later became St. Olav. St Olav’s Cross is believed to have been raised when the townspeople adopted Christianity in 1023. The Vangskjrkja Church was built by King Magnus, the Lawmaker, in 1277. The octagonal steeple is unique, and inside the church are rich decorations.

Sjur Helgeland (1858 – 1924) was a Norwegian fiddler and composer from Voss. Among his best known airs is "Budeiene på Vikafjell", composed over the different moods of three dairymaids, the sorrow, joy and happiness, combined with cattle call, wind and bird singing. He was the winner of the first national folk music contest Landskappleiken, in 1896. A stone memorial was raised in 1958.

After being settled in, everyone went to the hotel diningroom for a late dinner.

After breakfast, to begin their Fjords-area tour everyone returned to the train station for a ride to Myrdal. While waiting for the train, they met one of the locals who had moved to the area to take advantage of the skiing opportunities.

When Bev was researching Norway for the trip, she discovered the “Norway in a Nutshell” excursion. This excursion was advertised as “taking one through some of the most beautiful scenery in fjord Norway.” The excursion did not disappoint. Four Norwegian words give you an alliterative feel for the country – Fjell, Fonn, Foss and Fjord (mountains, snowdrifts, waterfalls and craggy inlets). Therein lies the natural beauty that sets Norway apart.   
At Myrdal, the group changed trains and boarded the Flam Canyon Railway that took them the 12.4 miles down – from the mountain plateau of 2845 ft. to the sea level to the town of Flam. Nowhere in the world do adhesion railcars on normal tracks have a steeper journey. The 12.4 mile trip through 20 twisting tunnels excavated by hand provides striking views of mountain landscape. From their seat on the train they saw a constantly changing panorama of high mountains, thundering waterfalls and rich pastures in the bed of the valley. 

After reaching the town of Flam, the group had some time to do some shopping before boarding the ferry for a cruise. The village of Flam is a popular tourist destination and has been so since the late 19th century. It currently received almost 450,000 visitors a year – many coming to enjoy the Flam railway and the fjord tours. The harbor receives some 131 cruise ships per year. 

The two-hour cruise on the Sognefjord, then on the Naeroyfjord before reaching port at Gudvangen. The Sognefjord is the largest fjord in Norway, and one of the longest in the world. Located in Sogn og Fjordane county, it stretches 127 miles inland to the small village of Skjolden. The Naeroyfjord is one of the narrowest fjords in western Norway, with mountains that tower up to 1,800 meters.

After having packed and sent home the majority of their warm clothes, Marguerite and Bev both needed to purchased a Norway souvenir sweatshirt to stay warm on the cruise. While on the boat ride, Althea asked when the adventure would begin. When told that this is what the ride was, she became disappointed. It seems that when she heard that Marguerite and Bev were going to be traveling on the Norwegian fjords, that it would be more than a river-raft ride. Bev beleves that if she had known this before, then she would not have pushed Donna to join the tour in Norway, but waited until they reached Stockholm.

The village of Gudvangen is a popular tourist destination and is located where the Nærøydalselvi river empties into the fjord. From Gudvangen the journey continued by bus up the Nærøydalen Valley, navigating 13 steep hairpin bends of the Stalheimskleivene to the famous Stalheim Hotel with its majestic views; and, on this trip you can enjoy wonderful views of the Stalheimsfossen and Sivlefossen waterfalls. The beautiful view of the valley from Stalheim has for nearly 200 years been one of the highlights of many a traveller's visit to Western Norway. 

The bus ride from here continues to Bergen where the group will be spending the night. Bergen is an ancient city that looms large in Viking sagas. Until the 14th century it was the seat of the medieval kingdom of Norway. The Hanseatic merchants established a major trading post here, holding sway until the 18th century. Bergen has survived many disasters, including several fires and the explosion of a Nazi ship in World War II. It is a town with important traditions in shipping, banking, and insurance, and its modern industries are expanding rapidly. 

Reservations were at the Grand Hotel Terminus. A Bergen landmark since 1928, this hotel, located between the bus and railroad stations, offers quality and tradition. The in-house restaurant, Terminus Café, is known for its good value and its Norwegian buffets. Tonight was going to be a ‘packing’ challenge for everyone. Tomorrow they would be flying from Bergen to Stockholm through Oslo. Since they would be renting a car in Stockholm for their journey through Sweden, they needed to downsize their luggage to allow space in the car.

Today is the day they will finally arrive at the destination they have all been looking forward to – the purpose of the whole trip. Today they will arrive in Ostergotland, Sweden; which is where their ancestral heritage can be found. 
After breakfast they went to the Bergen airport to catch a flight to Oslo; and then transferred to the flight for Stockholm, Sweden. After arriving in Stockholm, they made their way to the airport storage area where they would be storing their larger luggage while they had the rental car. Next stop was to pick up their rental – bright red 4-door Saab. Then it was on to Linkoping. 

Inhabited since the Bronze Age, Linkoping is the capital of Ostergotland province. It is one of Sweden’s foremost literary and religious centers, as well as home to SAAB and Svenska industries. Reservations for this portion of the trip were at the Hotel Ekoxen. 


After checking in, they took a ride around the city. Everyone got a chuckle out of the words for in/out at the parking garage (see photo). The city’s skyline was dominated with the view of the Romanesque and Gothic cathedral, built in the 13th century. Bev had owned a Saab previously and wanted to see where the Saab plant was located. 


The following morning, they were met at the hotel by their distant cousins, Kurt and Margot Rodin, and their friends, Bert and Lola Friberg. They have a cousin in Minnesota who has visited Sweden previously and has done research on their ancestors. He had given Marguerite the Rodin’s name and phone number. (Bert is a retired engineer from SAAB.) 


Everyone climbed into the two vehicles and headed out to visit the family history. Every year on Midsummer’s weekend there is a special church service held on the site of the original Vikingstad Kyrka (Church) which was built in 1785. This was the church where Marguerite’s and Althea’s great-great-grandparents Lars and Anna Svensson attended. They stopped here to attend the service.  

There is a cross that stands where the original pulpit had been. Although it was all in Swedish, the feeling of attending church with their ancestors was present. Kurt got up during the service and introduced the travelers as ‘visiting descendants from the United States.’ After the service, Bev was presented the altar bouquet as a sign of welcome. There is a good possibility that the Americans were distantly-related to several members of the congregation.  After the service, a picnic was provided by the Rodins and Fribergs. Marguerite thought it was quite comical to see Bev carrying the bouquet of flowers and trying to balance her teacup and snacks. Walking back to the cars, they found some old gravestones.

 

The next stop was Vikingstad KIA. This was the new location for the Vikingstad Church. Lumber from the old church was used to build this one. This church was attended by their great grandmother Anna. 


Egeby was where Marguerite’s and Althea’s great grandpa Erik was born in 1788 to Erik Eriksson and Maja Andersdotter. After Erik married Anna, they lived in Egeby and their first three children were born there. 
From Egeby they visited the Smedstorp farm house. Great Grandma and Grandpa Eriksson lived here and this is where their next three children were born. There had been a midsummer party at the house the night before and the owner was somewhat reluctant in letting them see the house until she was told that the group was visiting from the United States. 
The family moved again to the Stockely farm in the Ostra Tollstad Parish. This is where Marguerite’s and Althea’s grandpa Sven was born in 1828.  


After great grandpa Erik died in 1842, great grandma Anna moved back to Vastra Holmen in Vasterlosa Parish before immigrating to the United States. Grandpa Sven had gone back to Egeby before emigrating. They all had attended the Vasterlosa Kryka. 

The next stop on the tour was the town of Vadstena. The city of Vadstena is noted for two important artefacts of Swedish history: it was in Vadstena, in 1350, that Saint Bridget of Sweden founded the first monastery of her Bridgettine Order; and Vadstena Castle is one of Sweden’s best-preserved castles from the era of Gustav Vasa in the 16th century. Today the surviving buildings of the monastery are occupied by a hotel: the Vadstena Klosterhotel, and the castle houses the provincial archives, and a museum of 16th and 17th century furniture, portraits and paintings. 

Vadstena Castle was founded by Gustavus Vasa, king of Sweden, in 1545, but not completed until 1620. This is one of the most splendid Renaissance Vasa castles, erected during a period of national expansion. It dominates the town from its moated position on the lake. Vadstena was last inhabited by royalty in 1715, and was the castle was restored in the 19th century. Since 1899, it has been used for provincial archives. 

Vadstena is an important stopover on the Gota Canal. It is this medieval town full of various streets and old-frame buildings on the eastern shores of Lake Vattern. It is known all over Sweden for its handsome lace – samples are on display in the windows along Stora Gatan, the main street.
 

The group stopped for lunch at the Radhuskallaren before heading to the Klosterkyrkan (Abbey Church). The Church was built between the mid 14th and 15th centuries, to specifications outlined by its founder, St. Birgitta (Bridget) of Sweden, this Gothic church is rich in medieval art. Part of the abbey dates from 1250. The abbey housed the nuns of St. Brigitta’s order until their explusion in 1595. The new monastery and church built in 1973 show the same traditional simplicity of style St. Brigitta prescribed for her order. 

Ever since medieval times, pilgrims and visitors have traveled to the Abbey Church to pray at the Reliquary of St. Birgitta, who died in Rome in 133. In her divine revelations, St Birgitta had a vision that we seek to carry further. In modern time, the Abbey Church has become a meeting place for people from many countries and many churches, a place where God can speak to them. 
Like other older churches, tombs can also be found within the walls of the Abbey. One of these tombs is that of Count Magnus (1595), the third son of King Gustav Vasa. 

Located outside of the Abbey is a rock with writings from the Viking era. 


After the church, the American group said goodbye to their new Swedish friends.  

The next day Althea, Marguerite and Bev headed west towards Vimmerby. Along the way the came to the town of Kisa. Peter Cassell Day is celebrated on the Sunday prior to Midsummer’s Day in Kisa, Ostergotland providence (South Central Sweden). Peter Cassell organized and led a group of immigrants to the United States in 1845 to the area now called Iowa. He had a son named Sven. 
Marguerite’s and Althea’s great-grandmother (Anna Dalander) came to the United States with her children and was to meet with Peter Cassell a year later. They took a wrong tributary of the river and settled in Boone County and called it Swede’s Point (later the name was changed to Madrid, Iowa). Sven Cassell stayed in Iowa and married Ulrica Dalander (Marguerite’s and Althea’s father’s aunt). They had two sons named John. The first John died. The second John was their father’s first cousin. 

They stopped to visit the Emigrant’s Museum. There was a lot of information pertaining to Peter Cassell and his son Sven. Swede’s Point (Madrid, Iowa) was also featured as one of the locales for Swedish Emigrants.

From Kisa they drove to Vimmerby. This is where Marguerite’s and Althea’s grandma and grandpa Hallgren went to school. After immigrating to the United States, they met again and married. 

Vimmerby is also the hometown of Astrid Lindgren, creator of Pippi Longstocking.

They had a picture of the church that grandma Hallgren had attended. They thought it was in Vimmerby. They showed the picture to some girls at the Tourist Information Center and they checked with their manager. Instead of Vimmerby, it was a Parish called Sondra Vi about 15 kilometers north. They were given directions on how to get there. 

This is an excerpt from their grandpa’s obituary and where they had the picture of the church that they had showed the girls at the Information Center. -- Frank Hallgren was born December 1, 1852 in Ostergotland, Sweden. In 1879, he was united in marriage to Miss Hulda Sampson, a schoolmate of his from Sweden. To this union were born eight children. Mrs Hallgren preceded her husband in death in 1923.  

When they arrived, a gentleman was leaving and they did not see anyone else. As they were walking around the church, a lady left the building next door. They stopped her, and although she did not speak English, she opened the building back up. It was a museum.

From here they headed further east to Vastervik, a coastline city on the Baltic Sea. It was breezy that day, so they chose not to put their feet into the water.

Today they would be returning to Stockholm. The rental car needed to be returned to the downtown location, so Bev wanted to leave in plenty of time to get the car to the rental location. Donna thought that they were leaving too early, so she and Althea decided to take the bus from Linkoping and meet Marguerite and Bev at the hotel later. It was a good thing that Bev and Marguerite left when they did, because they got lost in metropolis Stockholm and arrived at the rental location with only a half hour to spare. 

Spread out over several peninsulas and 14 islands in Lake Malaren and the Baltic Sea, Stockholm is Sweden’s capital and largest city. It is also the youngest of the Scandinavian capitals; and considered the “Venice of the North.” Canals and bridges lace the “city on the water”; which was founded in the 13th century. The heritage from the grand old days can still be sensed in the narrow cobble stone streets of Gamla Stan – the old town, the Royal Palace, the Nordic Museum and the interesting Wasa Ship. Once occupied by the Danes, it has been Sweden territory since 1523. 

They will be staying at the Scandic Hotel Park while they are in Stockholm. 

While Marguerite, Althea and Donna went to visit a distant cousin Nan, Bev took care of her fetish by visiting the Hard Rock Café.

There was a tour of Stockholm scheduled for the following day. Bev and Marguerite found their way down to Gustav Adolfs Torg to meet the bus. On the way to the Torg, Bev and Marguerite visited the Grand Hotel. Opposite the Royal Palace, this hotel is grand in name and deed, the finest in Sweden. Built in 1874, it has been continually renovated, but its old-world style has always been maintained. They took the opportunity to wander through the lobby of the hotel simply to see the old-time European elegance. 

Unaware that Donna had made arrangements for the bus to pick her and Althea up at the hotel. Bev and Marguerite were quite surprised to see them there when they boarded the bus. Before getting on the bus, they were introduced to Gustav Adolfs Torg. This is one of the most famous landmark squares of Stockholm. In the center is the equestrian statue dedicated to King Gustavus Adolphus II. From the square one has a panoramic view of the Royal Palace across the canal. 
      On one side of the square is the Arvfurstens Palatset, completed in 1794 and former residence of the Crown Prince. It is currently used for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. At Helgeandsholman, the Swedish Parliament Building dates from 1897-1906.
      Another building on the square is the Kunglija Opera (Royal Opera House). Its present neobaroque appearance was in fact the work of the architect Anderberg, at the end of the 19th century. King Gustavus III, patron of the arts, was assassinated here at a masked ball in 1792.
      Kungliga Stottet – the Royal Palace in Gamla Stan, was built in 1697-1754. This is one of the few official residences of a European monarch that is open to the public. Although the monarchy prefer living at Drottningholm, their official business is carried on at the Royal Palace. A summer highlight is the daily changing of the guard. 

The tour continued through city center and passed by the Swedish Royal Theater. Stadshuset (Stockholm City Hall) was built in what is called the “National Romantic Style.” This is one of the finest examples of modern architecture in Europe. Designed by Ragnar Ostberg, it was completed in 1923. The structure is dominated by a lofty square tower 348 feet high, topped by three gilt crowns, the symbol of Sweden, and the national coat-of-arms. From here they stopped at an overlook that gave a panoramic view of Lake Malaren and, in the distance, the Baltic Sea.

From here the tour returned to the Royal Palace to watch the changing of the guard.  

Next to the Palace is the entrance to Gamla Stan. A tour of Stockholm should include Gamla Stan, the Old Town of Stadsholmen, an island in the center of the city. Conservation has ensured that this area retain its medieval charm and has many government buildings. As most streets are narrow – Marten Trotzigs Grand is little more than 1 meter wide.
Situated in Gamla Stan is the Storyrkan Church. This church was founded in the mid-1200s, but it has been rebuilt many times since. It is the site for coronations and royal weddings. Kings are also christened here. The most celebrated piece of sculpture is St. George and the Dragon, a huge piece of artwork dating from 1489. The royal pews have been used for three centuries, and the altar, mainly in ebony and silver, dates from 1652. The façade of the organ was created in 1789. The bells in the tower are four in total, of which the largest weighs 6.8 tons. This is still a functioning church. 
The Silver Altar is of ebony and silver, and was donated to the Cathedral in the 1650s by Councillor Johan Adler Salvius and his wife. The doors surrounding the altar are closed during Lent. The Pulpit is from the year 1700, and was carved in sumptuous and extravagent style by the sculptor, Burchardt Precht. The Hebrew text reads JAHVE, meaning “God.” Under the pulpit lie the tombstones of Olaus Petri, the Swedish Reformer. The Seven-Branched Candlestick is a candelabra of bronze and just over 12 feet high. It was probably made in Germany in the 15th century and has now adorned the Cathedral for more than five hundred years. The light globe has since 1972 been an assembly point to the lighting of candles and prayers for the world that it represents. The globe is the work of the artist, Toroif Engstrom. 

St George and the Dragon is an extremely well-preserved sculptural ensemble, unequaled among its kind; that was created by Berndt Notke of Lubeck from materials such as oak and elk antlers. It was unveiled in 1489 as an altar monument. The legend of St George and the Dragon tells of a terrible dragon that demanded human offerings from the town. The day the King’s daughter is to be sacrificed, St George comes riding by. On condition that the town convert from heathen to Christianity, he slays the dragon. 

That afternoon, another tour was scheduled. The “Under the Bridges Tour” leaves from a dock diagonally in front of the Grand Hotel. The seagoing tour heads through the harbor of the city and around Deer Garden, past the breathtaking “Embassy Row,” and under the bridges that vault over the lakes that connect Malaren Lake. The tour passes through two locks connecting Malaren Lake and the Baltic Sea.